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Equipa de Limpeza


(Imagem do site http://amania.110mb.com/Chapters/Tech/algae-oto.html)

Bom dia, uma das questões mais importantes no que toca à fauna de um aqua, é ter uma equipa de limpeza, a qual deve ter: camarões, peixes limpa algas.
O peixe que vos trago hj,é um bom exemplar para a vossa equipa de limpeza. É um peixe bonito e bastante activo o que é essencial para quem quer ter um aquário sem algas. O Otoncinclus affinis, de seguida vêm algumas das suas características:


Nome: Otocinclus affinis

Origem: América do Sul

Comprimento: 5 cm

Aqua: 40

PH: 7.0

Temp: 25°C

Blueaquarium.org

http://www.blueaquarium.org/2011/01/3rd-project-tank-by-hc-rotala/

Boas hoje trago-vos um aquário excepcional



(clicar na imagem, para ver maior)

Boas, mais um bom exemplo de um aquário plantado e a sua descrição do site aquascapingworld.com.

Para mais info: http://www.aquascapingworld.com/forum/aquascape-month/4253-january-2011-aquascape-month-peruvian-nights.html

12 concelhos para principiantes (by thinkaquatic)

12 Tips for Beginners

1: Buy the largest tank you can afford and have space for. Preferably 20 gallons (90 litre) or more. Even though small tanks are marketed as “Ideal for a beginner” they are not. A larger tank will maintain temperature and water conditions better.

2: Wash your filters in tank water, not tap water. Tap water contains chlorine that will kill beneficial bacteria.

3: Make frequent partial water changes. At a minimum, 25% per month should be changed. It is better to change less water, more frequently. 10-15% per week is ideal.

4: Do not overfeed your fish. The uneaten food will break down and foul your aquarium water. The food that is eaten will be excreted by the fish and foul your aquarium water. Fish should eat small amounts 2-3 times per day. As a rough estimate, a fish’s total daily intake should be equal to about the size of their eye.

5: Research your fish before buying. Make sure they are compatable in terms of water conditions and aggressiveness.

6: Observe your fish before buying them. Make sure there are no obvious signs of illness or injury and that they swim freely and effortlessly. There should be no dead, dying or sick fish in the fish stores tanks.

7: Release new fish into the tank gradually. Float the bag of fish in the tank for 15-20 minutes to equalize water temperature. Do not add the fish stores water to your tank. Drain the bag into a bucket, through a fishnet and allow the fish to swim out of the net into the tank.

8: If possible, use a quarantine tank for your new fish. This will help ensure that your are not introducing disease to your tank.

9: Understand the cycling process and new tank syndrome.

10: Add additional fish to your tank slowly, over time, to ensure that the beneficial bacteria in the tank has time to build and keep up with the tanks rising ammonia loads.

11: Do not overstock! 1″ of fish per gallon is generally used as a guideline, but this must be used with common sense. You simply can not put a 20 inch fish in a 20 gallon tank.

12: Avoid using chemical additives if possible. They have different effects on different fish. Combining chemicals in the tank can lead to new, unintended chemicals occuring in the aquarium.

The most important rule…If you have questions or need help, ask.

Rasbora Espei e comida Elos

Bom dia,
hoje trago-vos um produto inovador que comprei para alimentar os meus Rasbora Spei e Boraras. 

O Elos SV1 é uma comida em granulado pequeno, dimensionado para os peixes de reduzido tamanho, permitindo a estes peixes, que consigam alimentar-se eficazmente. 

Visto que a comida em flocos tem dois problemas, torna-se excessivamente grande para estes peixes e suja o aquário aumentando o nível de Nitratos e Fosfatos.

Formulado com ingredientes de alta qualidade que fornecem alta digestibilidade e palatabilidade, Elos SV, é o primeiro a nutrição de alta gama alimento para peixes dedicada a espécie do aquário, bem como para o equilíbrio biológico do aquário. Desde a sua introdução em 1997, foi provado por criadores de peixes de topo que Elos SV pode ser usado para aumentar a imunidade dos peixes e com êxito reforçar a sua resistência contra infecções bacterianas, virais e parasitárias. Tudo isto possível graças a:
* A adição de beta-glucanas, as substâncias naturais que, estimulam os macrófagos, células especializadas que reduzem a patogenicidade desenvolvimento de agentes.
* Implementar a tecnologia OSCAR, um "pós-extrusão" do sistema para aumentar seu nível de nutrição, aumentar o nível de Bio-disponibilidade, reduzindo assim a necessidade de mais alimentação.
* Usando Extrusão a baixa temperatura, e LT matéria-prima, onde sensíveis ao calor nutrientes, tais como aminoácidos e vitaminas são ilesa.
Tudo isto conduz a um elevado grau de digestibilidade de alimentação e do valor de nutrientes, tendo a necessidade de menos alimentos reduzindo assim significativamente o nível de resíduos orgânicos na água.
Elos SV 1 tem um tamanho de grão pequeno, ideal para pequenos peixes como Guppy, Neon, Espada, Rasbora, Caracyds, etc. É um alimento inovador, sem poeira e sem oil-free que leva à dispensa de excelente alimentadores automáticos, sem película de óleo na superfície da água e uma água limpa.
DESTAQUES:
* O uso de beta glucanos: para melhorar a resistência dos peixes e as taxas de sobrevivência
* Alta naturais astaxantina níveis de pigmento: melhorar as cores dos peixes
* Superior perfis nutricionais: perfil ácido amino excelente, altos níveis de ácidos graxos altamente insaturados, etc
* Melhoria da digestibilidade e palatabilidade
* O pacote de alta qualidade: para reduzir a necessidade de implementação de nível conservante PO4 baixo
* Atrativo aromatizante / feed potente: resultando em captação de ração melhorada e Índices de conversão alimentar (FCRS)
Nota: muitos tipos de alimentos de peixe contêm vários sais de fosfato inorgânicos intencionalmente adicionado a elas como conservantes. Usando as latas de alumínio / sacos e tendo o cuidado particular no sistema de embalagem, que é feita em atmosfera controlada, que têm reduzido a necessidade de ultrapassar com conservantes reduzindo assim significativamente o nível de PO4 libertado para a água.

(by Elos)

Rasbora espei


Nome: http://jbukkems.tweakdsl.nl/Vissen/Rasbora_espei.jpg

Origem: Tailândia, Camboja

Comp: 4cm

Aqua: 40L

pH:6,5

Temp: 26ºC

Três erros ao começar em Aquários Plantados

(em breve em Português)

Top 3 Mistakes When Starting a Planted Aquarium



(Photo by adaeuro compet)

For those of you starting out in the world of planted aquariums, I've picked my top three mistakes I've seen people make when starting an planted aquarium or converting a fish-only aquarium to include live plants. Consider this a crash-course in starting a planted aquarium. Most of these mistakes lead to the plants dying within a few weeks and, for those of us who don't give up easily, the process is repeated until either our patience or pocket is depleted. Often this is compounded by bad advice given by people at pet stores who often don't know a thing about plants, and even sell plants that aren't true aquatic plants. I'm sure many a potential planted aquarium enthusiast has been lost due to bad advice and these three mistakes. Here they are:

1. But it looks bright! - Often people try to grow plants under the light fixtures that come with an aquarium or come standard in a cheap hood. More than likely, this is a single fluorescent bulb, usually no more than 15 or 20 watts (steer WAY clear of incandescent, they just waste energy, heat your aquarium, and grow algae). The most critical element needed to grow live plants is light. Plants need light to photosynthesize, and without it, they may last a few days or a few weeks on their energy reserves, but eventually they will die. Many people are also mislead by bad advice into believing that the light that is sold with aquariums is adequate. The standard lighting that comes with an aquarium will typically only grow Java Moss and maybe Java Ferns and very poorly at that. If you like ugly, lanky, unhealthy plants go ahead and try it. No matter how bright it may look, it is not enough light. Plants only use specific colors of light, usually in the red and blue ranges. Humans perceive green as brightness. Therefore, what appears bright to us may not actually be helpful to plants. Always choose full spectrum lighting or specific plant growing bulbs, and at least 1.5-2 watts per gallon (WPG) is needed to grow the most basic of aquatic plants in an aquarium. Although this is not set in stone and the watts per gallon rule gets distorted with really small (under 10 gallons) or really big (over 75 gallons) aquariums, it is a good rule of thumb. The following breaks down what ranges qualify as different levels of light:

* 0-1.5 WPG - Extremely low, pretty much nothing will grow
* 1.5-2 WPG - Low, basic hardy aquatic plants will grow slowly
* 2-3 WPG - Medium, most aquatic plants will grow fine
* 3+ WPG - High, almost any aquatic plant can be grown

What must also be taken into account is the related effect of light levels on a plant. This brings me to mistake number two.

2. But I thought high light = a beautiful aquarium! - Say you splurge and buy an expensive high output light fixture for your aquarium. Throw some plants in and sit back and watch it grow, right? Wrong. Light in an aquarium is like the gas pedal in a car, the more you push it the faster you go, but the quicker things get out of hand, and when it does get out of hand it gets ugly. Having high light is not always best, especially for someone who's new to planted aquariums. A basic understanding of a plant's metabolic process is required (don't worry, I won't go into details). It takes a bunch of raw materials and energy and outputs a finished product (new growth). Raw materials are fertilizers, chemicals needed for growth, and energy is light. If it runs out of any one of these inputs, the whole thing shuts down, and more importantly, it can only go so fast. So when you throw a plant under high light, it immediately kicks the internal mechanisms into high gear. The plants just shut down when they run out of any one of the many chemicals needed to grow. If you don't fertilize your tank, you will quickly find that all high light does by itself is grow algae, and lots of it. Fast. Real fast. For this reason, if you're just starting out, my advice is to get a medium or low light setup. You don't have to fertilize as much (if at all with a low light setup) and things won't be moving at such a fast pace (and thus get out of control so quickly). It's very hard to recover from a serious algae bloom because once it's taken hold, some types are impossible to remove. I've heard horror stories of people being forced to totally break down their tank because of algae. You've got to stay on top of it from the start.

3. But it was being sold as an aquatic plant! - Many fish stores sell aquatic plants. The problem is, many also sell plants that are not true aquatics. Often these can be found in big-box chain pet stores, where they make up 30-50% of the plants sold. Even at the local fish store, unless there is a dedicated employee who knows his or her facts, non-aquatic plants can be sold to an unsuspecting aquarist. Why these plants are sold as aquatic plants is beyond me, but I doubt it falls far from someone wanting to make a quick buck. They will survive fine underwater for a few months, maybe even a year, but they will steadily decline until they finally die. Since they are not true aquatics, they cannot survive submerged for long periods of time. The only way to avoid these plants is to educate yourself. Certain plants always seem to pop up:

* "Mondo Grass" Ophiopogon japonicus - This is a bushy grass with dark green leaves.
* "Purple Waffle" Hemigraphis colorata - Dark green broad leaves with purple undersides.
* "Aluminum Plant" Pilea cadierei -Dark green leaves with silver markings on the foliage.

Steer clear of these, you are just wasting your money, despite how pretty they may be. Can you imagine what would happen if fish stores were selling non-aquatic animals to put in your fish tank? Only by not buying these plants can we discourage fish stores and their suppliers from passing these off as true aquatic plants.

As long as you avoid these three mistakes, you should get past the inital transition into the wonderful planted aquarium hobby. Then you can start upping the ante and experimenting with fancy rare plants and high tech setups. It's a steep learning curve, but do your research and you will be rewarded with an aquarium that exploding with life and color that you just can't take your eyes off of!
(by Aquatic Eden)

Como retirar as algas do Musgo

(brevemente em portugês)

You could remove algae with the 'right' way by following the method from the paper written by Paul L. Sears and Kevin C. Conlin - Control of Algae in Planted Aquaria. You could also do the 'estimative' way recommended by Tom Barr - The Estimative Index of Dosing, or No Need for Test Kits.

But if you have a life and don't have the time to do weekly change of water as what Tom Barr suggested, then you might want to consider reading the book by Diana L. Walstad - Ecology of the Planted Aquarium. In her book, Diana Walstad gives the scientific details about plant ecology in a planted aquarium. It's definitely a book you must read if you want to know more about your planted tank and reduce algae growth. You can following this link to read why Diana Walstad wrote the book ‘Ecology of the Planted Aquarium’.

However, this article here is not about the right way, the left way, or the middle path. It's the 'unorthodox' way of nuking algae from Java Moss or any other type of aquatic moss, easy, fast, and effective.

What you need are some bleach, water, moss, and algae. Mix about 5% bleach solution with 95% water in a container. Throw in the moss. Throw in the algae. Stirr them around in the bleach solution, and wait for 2 minutes. If the algae is soft algae, it should be 'bleached' by then. If it's the tougher Black Brush Algae(BBA), or Hair Algae, they should turn to a pale colour and would die later. Take out the moss and rinse a few times to make sure that the residual chlorine has been remove. Alternatively, you could dump the moss into another container and add in some anti-chlorine solution. After this treatment, your moss will be as good as new.

Note:

1. If your tank is full of algae, bleaching the java moss alone will not solve the algae problem.
2. This method is most applicable if you have lots of grown-out containers that you use for fry rearing. Usually we would want to put in some easy-growing Java Moss in the container to suck up the excess nutrient. After the fry have grown up, usually the moss would be covered with algae. After the bleach dip, the moss would be clean again for reuse.
3. Please remember to bleach the container also.
4. Keep the bleach out of small children's reach.
5. Do not drink the bleach solution.
6. In case the bleach gets into your body, consult a doctor immediately.
7. Aquamoss is not responsible for any death of human lives, fish, or plants if you apply this method.

(by http://www.aquamoss.net/Articles/Remove-Algae-From-Moss.htm)

Crystmas Moss


(By aquariumplantsandsupplies.com)

(em breve em português)

Christmas Moss is as mysterious as some of the other mosses in the aquarium hobby. There is no consensus on its geographic origins and even the scientific name has a tendency to change. Its growth habits and appearance are just as varied. When grown attached to a piece of driftwood or rock, it forms triangular fronds in the shape of Christmas trees (hence the common name). If allowed to grow free floating, it tends to have a much less organized appearance and the triangular fronds are much less pronounced. In this form, it is often confused for the much more common Java Moss. In lower light, it grows much less densely, and again, is often much less organized in structure. Only under higher light conditions, attached or anchored to an object, does Christmas Moss show its true structure. It will form a pillowy bush of triangular fronds that is very attractive and undemanding.

This moss is very easy to grow in the aquarium, as it will grow with almost any amount of light. Although not as hardy as the legendary Java Moss, it will survive with low light and no CO2. Growth will not be the ideal structure and will be considerably slower, but it will still live. Like other mosses, Christmas Moss prefers cooler temperatures, under 77F. Over this, it tends to suffer, growing more slowly.

As an aquascaping element, its uses are limited to covering hardscape (rocks, driftwood) or creating a moss wall. A moss wall is created by sandwiching the moss between two pieces of mesh and placing this in the back or sides of a tank. The moss eventually grows through the mesh and covers it up, creating a wall of attractive triangular fronds (as seen in the picture above). It can be used as a carpeting plant, however this is not recommended, as it easily gets choked with mulm and debris and becomes an algae magnet.

Christmas Moss is best bought from other hobbyists who have it growing under ideal conditions in their own aquariums (thus making identification easier). Getting it in a local pet store or online can be risky, as Java Moss can be passed off as Christmas Moss at less than reputable establishments. Christmas Moss can be identified by its more regular branching pattern and slightly different leaf shape.

Shrimp and fish fry use it as cover and it is also an excellent source of food for both, harboring tiny infusoria (bugs). Overall, Christmas Moss is an excellent plant for covering hardscape, filling in gaps, and creating living backdrops in any aquarium.

* Ideal for making Moss wall as your aquarium backdrop
* Preferred over Taiwan moss as backdrop, because of its unique 3-Dimensional feel
* Taxiphyllum species like Taiwan moss is flatter, thus commonly used to tie to driftwood
* Optimum temperature for growth is around 26 degree celcius. (79 Fahrenheit)
* Slow growing but very hardy
* Great natural hideout for fish fry
* Able to withstand a great variety of water conditions
* Attach to driftwood with sewing thread or fishing line
* Attach to wire mesh /rock / driftwood to keep the moss in the desired place. Else, it could be floating around
* No carbon dioxide injection required for healthy growth

PH 5.8 - 7.5
Temperature 24 to 29 Celcius (75 to 84 Fahrenheit)
Lighting Requirements Low to High
Size 1.5"
Difficulty Easy
(By aquariumplantsandsupplies.com)


Ver em:

Venda de Camarões e de Musgo de Java

Pode encontrar na página intitulada de Loja.

ADA Bacter Ball

Este produto ADA é mais um destaque da marca ADA, que traz cerca de 100 microorganismos benéficos para o seu aquário, além disso a sua fauna irá se alimentar dos restos dessas bactérias e com isso a flora intestinal de Peixes e Camarões será activada, colaborando com seu crescimento e cores.

(by Aquário Azul Marinho)

Artigo de um Fórum

Boas, achei interessante este artigo. Para início é bastante bom:

Autor: Edson Rechi (forumaquario.com.br)


Introdução:

Um aquário plantado! Quem não admira estas verdadeiras obras de arte?
O aquário plantado, hoje em dia, é moda entre grande parte dos aquariofilistas devido à beleza e paz transmitida. Aquários plantados são tanques que se enquadram com equipamentos e parâmetros físico-químicos para o desenvolvimento das plantas, mas nada impede de mantermos em harmonia espécies de peixes e plantas, desde que compatíveis.

Para isso devemos desmistificar alguns conceitos, que sempre são seguidos até atingir seu ápice e muitas vezes melhorados. Para se ter um belo tanque plantado, não basta inserir plantas no tanque e depois ficar se perguntando o porque não se desenvolvem ou trocando a cada vez que elas morrem. Devemos seguir algumas regras para o sucesso a qual vamos esclarecer de modo simples e objectivo neste artigo.

Notem que ao longo do texto, existe uma enorme diferença entre aquário plantado e "aquário com (de) plantas". Digo isso, porque é muito comum vermos aquários montados com plantas e não muito raro o aquariofilistas tem que trocá-las a cada mês. Claro, que existem algumas plantas que resistem por meses ou até anos, mas não por méritos da montagem do sistema e sim pela sua rusticidade.

Escolhendo o aquário:

Tamanho não é documento!
Existe uma infinidade de tamanhos de tanques a escolher, para a montagem de um aquário plantado. Lembrando sempre que pequenos tanques (os famosos "Nanos") são mais instáveis e difíceis de serem mantidos que tanques maiores. O tamanho do tanque muitas vezes depende da disponibilidade financeira e o espaço que temos em casa. Em geral entre 50L a 200L já permite uma boa montagem sem gastos financeiramente maiores, mas claro que quanto maior o tanque, melhor.



Existem inúmeros tamanhos e formas, sendo os mais indicados aquários rectangulares (mais compridos que altos) ou cubos (aquários quadrados). Sempre opte por aquários não muito alto (no máximo 50cm de altura), já que frequentemente se usa lâmpada fluorescente tubular, podendo as plantas, mais baixas sentir falta de luz, caso o aquário seja muito alto. Se desejar um aquário acima de 50cm de altura, é altamente indicado usar lâmpadas VHO ou HQI que suprirão a necessidade luminosa de seu tanque.

Recomendado o uso de um bom termostato, para manter a temperatura estável, em geral a regra é usar 1W/L, ou seja, se tens um tanque de 200L, um bom termostato de 200W dará conta do recado. Oscilações acima de 2ºC diário, prejudica as plantas interferindo em seu metabolismo (peixes idem).

A água:

99% dos aquariofilistas usam água de torneira, devemos nos precaver de alguns cuidados básicos como Cloro, Metais pesados, Fosfatos. Use sempre um bom condicionador de água (ex. Aquasafe), para eliminar tais substâncias.

Notem que a água usada em aquários plantados não é diferente de aquários comunitários sem plantas, não há nada em geral para abordar mais detalhadamente. Em geral plantas vivem bem em pH levemente ácido ou levemente alcalino (6.5 a 7.5) com dureza baixa ou média e temperaturas entre 25º a 29º. É indispensável o uso de condicionadores, além de ser sempre bom ter em mãos testes de pH, KH, GH e fosfatos.


Filtros:

De primeira: Se você usa o famoso FBF (fundo biológico de fundo, sim aquelas plaquetas pretas que ficam abaixo do cascalho), descarte o uso deste tipo de filtro, pois aquários com este sistema prejudica o crescimento das raízes e nos limita e muito no uso de substratos fertilizantes para as plantas.

As melhores opções são os filtros externos HangOn(aqueles que ficam pendurado nas bordas do vidro) e filtros tipo Canister. Os primeiros levam vantagem por não custarem tanto e cumprem bem seu papel, já o Canister são os mais indicados, por inúmeros óptimos motivos, embora dependendo da marca, o preço poderá ser proibitivo.

Filtros Dry-Wet e Sumps devem ser evitados, por removerem muito CO2 da água conforme vamos ver logo abaixo. O dimensionamento da filtragem é que ela deva circular em média 5X o volume total do aquário por hora.
Sempre que optar por filtros externos, evite que este cause um forte fluxo de água no aquário causando desperdício de CO2, que é essencial para as plantas. Sempre deixe a coluna d' água bem rente à caída da água dos filtros. Deverá possuir uma excelente filtragem biológica e mecânica (leia artigo sobre filtros para melhor compreensão).

ADA - Takashi Amano - Japão




Para mais info: http://www.adana.co.jp

Ctenopoma acutirostre - Ctenopoma Leopardo

Bom dia, hoje trouxe um peixe que achei muito interessante partilhar convosco. Aqui vai:





Origem: Bacia do Rio Congo (África)

Comp: 15 cm

Aqua (tamanho) 200 L

PH: 7.0

Temperatura: 38ºC

(em breve em Português)

truly magnificent fish - the Ctenopoma acutirostre is pure eye candy. The striking leopard like pattern and short spikes on the fins give the Ctenopoma acutirostre an exotic look. These fish are a part of the unique Anabantidae family, freshwater fishes from Africa and Southern Asia. They are related therefore to the ever popular Betta Fish (Betta splendens).

The Ctenopoma acutirostre needs plenty of room to hide out and live happily. They are carnivorous fish who love to stalk their prey, holding themselves completely vertical, bending their caudal fin to look "leaf like" before going in for a kill. Instantaneously before a kill, the Ctenopoma opens its mouth creating a cylinder type funnel and swallows the prey whole. Feedings should be various and should always include some sort of "live" food (frozen included). Favorites are feeder guppies, live/frozen brine shrimp, tubefex worms and mollusks. Often general tropical fish flake food and pellets are accepted as supplements. If these fish are given the listed diet and proper space, they will often grow to 1/2 their adult size with in 2-3 months.

These fish must have generous sources of hiding spots in driftwood, cavernous rocks and the like to be able to rest and lurk. Being nocturnal fishes (hence the large eyes) they enjoy a very densely planted tank in which to slide amongst the shadows. They are semi-aggressive, but can be good tank mates with other fish as long as the Ctenopoma has plenty of its own private caves/crevices which it will guard diligently. As well, tank mates should be larger than the Ctenopoma or else they will most certainly become a meal. The Ctenopoma does best with other fish who have mild temperaments, as this fish will fight when challenged.

Sexing can be difficult, but males display short spines on the gill covers which the females do not. Breeding has been obtained with moderate skill - but personally I have yet to attempt. The tank should be well planted and large and the temperature should be increased to at least 26°C. Water should be very soft and slightly acidic. The fish are bubble nest builders, but are not diligent parents and should be removed after spawning. Fry take typical foods including green water, fry "starter foods" and then should be moved on to live food such as live brine shrimp.

This fish has truly been an exciting venture for me. She is with out a doubt my favorite fish amongst all my marine and freshwater tanks. Being a relatively rare fish, I wasn't able to glean a lot of information from the web/books. Much of what I have learned has been from trial and error. My Ctenopoma is slightly camera shy, and truly finds her joy in hiding in her selected driftwood and stalking little feeder guppies.

(By AquaHobby)

Killfish (Fundulopanchax Gardneri)


Boas, um dos principais erros que os aquariofilistas fazem no início, por mim falo é começarem com peixes vivíparos, como os guppies ou platys, que são bastante fáceis de ter em cativeiro. Pois bem o erro no é começar por usar uma espécie fácil, o erro incorre de duas situações:
1- Misturar vivíparos com ovíparos
2- Manter-se sempre com esses peixes e não evoluir.

Pois bem hoje trago-vos um peixe curioso, cujas ovas se podem mandar vir pelo correio, bastante resistentes e se podem incubar e criar fácilmente, com artemia ou fragmentos finos de comida, a SERA tem.
Pois bem trago-vos os Killis, uns peixes pequenos muito bonitos e resistentes uma óptima alternativa em quem estagnou em betas, guppies e etc. Ofereçam a um amigo os peixes e avancem ;).

Aplocheilidae
Distribution

Cameroon and Nigeria.
Habitat

It occurs in rainforest and savanna streams and ponds.
Maximum Standard Length

2.6" (6.5cm).
Minimum Tank Size

18" x 10" x 10" (45cm x 25cm x 25cm) - 28 litres, although it can be spawned in smaller aquaria.
Tank Setup

A dark substrate should be used, ideally peat moss or similar and the tank should have dense areas of planting and pieces of wood to serve as cover. The use of floating plants to further diffuse the light is also recommended. This species is an accomplished jumper so the cover must be very tight fitting. The water in the aquarium should be filtered through peat if possible.
Temperature

73-79°F (23-26°C)
pH Range

6.0-7.5
Hardness

2-10°H
Diet

Small live or frozen foods such as daphnia or bloodworm are preferred although the fish will also accept good quality flake in most cases.
Compatibility

This is a robust killi that can be kept with others, but is not a fish for the general community. Species that inhabit different levels of the tank than the killis make the best tankmates, such as Corydoras catfish, peaceful dwarf cichlids or Loricariids. Male F. g. gardneri are very aggressive towards one another and sufficient space must be provided if more than one is to be kept. Females should be kept in small groups of 2 or 3 per male as they may be harassed quite vigorously by the males.
Sexual Dimorphism

Males are more brightly coloured than females.
Breeding

Relatively easy. Egg scatterers. There exist several different methods of spawning this fish in aquaria and much is down to personal preference. A trio can easily be spawned in an aquarium as small as 12" x 8" x 8". It's recommended that this fish be spawned in trios of 2 females and 1 male as males can be quite hard on females.

Many breeders do not use filtration in killi breeding setups but the the use of a small, air-driven sponge filter to prevent stagnation will do no harm. Water should be soft and acidic pH 6.0-6.5 (although there are instances of this species being bred in water of up to pH 8.0) with a temperature of 75-80°F. The tank should be unlit, and peat filtration is useful.

The fish should be conditioned on a varied diet of live and frozen foods. Keep the 2 sexes apart in separate conditioning tanks and selecting the best male and plumpest females before placing them in the spawning tank. This method allows females to recover between spawnings. Eggs are deposited in the substrate or in clumps of vegetation in nature. Therefore, either a layer of peat moss on the floor of the aquarium or clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss should be provided. Spawning mops can also be used. A bare-bottomed setup with spawning mops is easiest for both maintenance and egg collection.

If water conditions are good and the fish are well conditioned, spawning should present no problems. The eggs can be left in the aquarium to hatch with the parents but some eggs and fry may be eaten. If you want to raise a good-sized group, the eggs should be removed. 10-30 eggs are deposited daily for around 2 weeks and these should be gently removed as they are noticed. Each trio should only be allowed to spawn for a week or so before being returned to the conditioning tank as the spawning process is hard on the fish (particularly the female) and they can become fatigued and weak if left for too long.

Once removed, the eggs can be incubated either in water or by placing them on a damp layer of peat moss in a small container (margarine tubs are ideal). Less eggs tend to fungus using the latter method, although fungussed eggs should still be removed as they are noticed.

If incubating in water, the eggs can be transferred to a small aquarium or dish containing water from the spawning tank to a depth of 1-2 inches to which has been added 1-3 drops of methylene blue depending on volume. This container should be checked daily for fungussed eggs, which should be removed with a pipette. The eggs will hatch in 14-20 days depending on temperature.

If incubating on peat moss place the container in a warm, dark place and simply leave it for 21 days, after which the eggs will be ready to hatch. If you are spawning several species or multiple broods it is a good idea to label each container with the date, hatching date, species and number of eggs to prevent any disasters. Hatching can usually be induced by simply placing the eggs in the raising aquarium after 21 days, where the wetting of the eggs stimulates hatching. If this fails, blowing gently into the water through a straw or piece of airline can trigger hatching.

The fry can be fed brine shrimp nauplii or microworm as soon as they have used up their yolk sacs. The water must initially be kept very shallow but the level can be raised as the fry grow, which they do rapidly. Regular small water changes should be made to the raising tank.

Notes

This is a superb beginner's killifish being beautiful, easy to breed and relatively long-lived. It was formerly classed as Aphyosemion gardneri and indeed still is in much of the available literature. It is a member of the subgenus Paraphyosemion. There are many different colour variants in nature and several have been described as subspecies, including F. g. nigerianus, F. g. lacustris and F. g. mamfensis. Obviously, these should not be allowed to hybridise in aquaria and so should not be kept together, although aquarium care them all is virtually identical.

Interestingly it appears that F. g. gardneri occurs as both an annual and non-annual fish. This adaptation allows it to inhabit many different habitats, as it's able to breed in both permananent and temporary bodies of water.

(by Seriously Fish)

Para mais info: http://www.seriouslyfish.com/


Breeding Fundulopanchax gardneri Jos Plateau

By Kenneth Balog
From Wet Pet Gazette, Norwalk Aquarium Society
Aquarticles

Fundulopanchax gardenri is a beautiful semi-annual killifish from west central Africa. The species is comprised of a large number of geographical subspecies and color variants ranging from yellow through reds, greens, and blues.

The subject of this article, Fundulopanchax gardneri nigerianus Jos Plateau, comes from the Jos Plateau region of central Nigeria. Its habitat ranges from streams, pools and ponds in forests and grasslands of the region. The water is soft and slightly acidic with temperatures ranging from 74-79 degrees Fahrenheit. The Jos Plateau population reaches a maximum size of approximately 2 ½ inches. Males are sky blue with red spots across the head and body. The unpaired fins are blue at the body with a red stripe and finally a broad yellow border. Females are dull brown with dark brown spots and a light abdomen. The females are generally smaller with a larger girth.

Fundulopanchax gardneri is a classic two-week mop-spawning killifish. As such, a pair was placed in a bare 2 ½ gallon tank with just an airstone. The fish seemed happiest with a very gentle current in the tank, so the airflow was kept very low. The water was 74 degrees Fahrenheit with a pH of 6.8, and 40-60 % water changes were made almost every day. The fish were fed a variety of flakes, frozen, and live foods. The male and female got along well from the start and no problems with diseases were experienced.

A spawning mop was added to the tank and suspended below a plastic fishing float, and the fish proceeded to produce eggs at a rate of 7- 34 a day. (This prolific egg production was shocking in light of earlier experiences with the Baiisa population. That fish produced at most 1 or 2 eggs per week) The largest spawns were observed the day after a large feeding of meaty foods, especially baby brine shrimp. Spawning occurred most often in the morning and just before the lights went out at night. The eggs were well hidden within 3 inches of the top or bottom of the mop in classic switch-spawner fashion. The eggs measured approximately 1/8 inch in diameter and were clear to light amber in color.

Each night, the mop was pulled, squeezed lightly and the eggs were hand picked and placed in a shallow bowl with about 3/4 inch of water to incubate. The eggs were quite tough and the few that were crushed in handling were either unfertilized or just laid. Non-viable eggs were attacked by fungus as noted by a change in color to white. These eggs were removed with an eyedropper as soon as they were seen. Small water changes were made every few days using water from the parents' tank.

Over the next two weeks, the eggs gradually darkened and the eyes became visible. Hatching occurred at 14-16 days at 74 degrees. All fry were moved to a separate rearing bowl by eyedropper as they appeared. The fry were approximately 3/16 of an inch in length at hatching, and possessed little or no yolk sac. The fry were free-swimming almost immediately and could take microworms and baby brine shrimp without difficulty. Uneaten food was removed daily by eyedropper and small water changes were well tolerated by the fry.

The fry were extremely hardy and virtually no losses were experienced. Well-fed on a variety of foods they reached ½ inch at 3 weeks and 1 inch in 5 weeks. No sibling cannibalism was observed, so it wasn't necessary to separate them by size.

All told, Fundulopanchax gardneri is a beautiful, easy to keep killifish that is well-suited for any aquarist who wants to try breeding fish.

Escalares --> Amazónia

ELOS



Elos é uma marca de elevada qualidade de material para aquários especializada em aquários plantados. Pode comprar desde o aquário em si, passando pelo, sistema co2 até ao substrato.
Aconselho vivamente a ver o catálogo do site. Á venda em várias lojas incluindo a Naturline, em Sassoeiros,perto do Leclerc de Sassoeiros.

Bem aqui vai o catálogo:

http://www.eloseurope.com/en/images/stories/catalogue/catalog_2010.pdf


O site oficial: http://www.eloseurope.com/en/

Buenos Aires Tetra (Hemigrammus caudovittatus)

Boas mais um tetra. Desta vez de Buenos Aires. Adoro os tetras, são pequenos, não ocupam muito espaço no aquário, "resistentes alguns claro", e formam bonitos Cardumes.
Este penso que será do seu agrado ;).



Tamanho mínimo do Aquário: 10 litros
Nível de Tratamento: Fácil
Temperamento: Pacífico
Condições da água: (Dureza) - KH 12-30, (acidez/alcalinidade) - pH - 7.0-8.3
tamanho máximo: 2 cm
Cor: Vermelha prata
Dieta: Omnivoros
Origem: China
Familia: Characidae

Um pouco de informação (review):

O Tetra de Buenos Aires é um peixe da América do Sul, que é uma grande aquisição na comunidade do aquáriofilismo. Tem um corpo cor de prata, com barbatanas vermelhas.

The Buenos Aires Tetra can be housed in an aquarium with other soft water fish. Tetras are a schooling fish that work well in groups of six or more fish of the same species. Artificial plants, rocks and driftwood help to enhance its natural habitat and provide hiding spaces. The Buenos Aires Tetra will eat most live plants, except Java Fern.

Buenos Aires Tetras breed occasionally in an aquarium setting and a hospital or "breeding tank" will be necessary. Slightly acidic water is best for optimal breeding habits. After the eggs begin to hatch, removing the parents will reduce the number of lost fry.

The Buenos Aires Tetra will accept many small foods such as brine shrimp or daphnia, freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, micro pellet food, and a high quality flake food.

(by http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+890+2954&pcatid=2954)

assim que possa passo a tuguês :).

Escalares




Ora o meu peixe favorito! Da Amazónia!

origem: Bacia do rio amazonas, Guiana

data de origem: Schultze in Lichtenstein, 1823

esperança de vida: 10 anos

nome científico: Pterophyllum scalare

família: Cichlidae

tipo: Ovíparo

tamanho: 10 para 15 cm

temperatura: 22 para 26 °C

(by Arca de Noé)

Inicio do meu Cubo

O meu Cubo no início:

(by Aquahobbie)

Layout, fauna e flora:

Substracto ADA, areia ADA, musgo de java, Rotala Sp.Green, feto de java, anúbia nana, camarões NeoCaridina Red Cherry e NeoCaridina Heteropoda, Boraras Maculatos com cerca de 2 anos. 

Tem cerca de 1 ano de crescimento.

Rasboras Galaxy - em extinção




Este tema foi colocado nos fóruns, mas gostava de enfatizar mais uma vez a sua importância. Aparentemente o habitat nativo do Rásbora Galaxy tem sido ameaçado pela pesca excessiva dos exportadores de peixes para aquário. Não sei bem como nós os "hobbiests", podemos evitar esta situação, excepto evitar comprar os que não são criados em cativeiro, infelizmente não sabemos essa informação nas lojas.
Entro em conflito porque á umas semanas atrás comprei alguns deste peixes muito bonitos, num negócio irrecusável. tenho alimentado com larvas pretas, ou seja, tentarei ao máximo manter estes seres. Infelizmente, não existe muita informação sobre as suas condições de manutenção visto serem novos no Hobby. por favor comente o seu conhecimento sobre como cuidar destes peixes.
(By Guitarfish.org)

para mais info: http://www.aquamoss.net/Articles/Microrasbora-sp-Galaxy.htm

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(by Aquahobbie)



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